SUMMER 1999
AMTRAK TRAVELOGUE
PART II OF V
THE
by Carol Larsen
When I detrained from the Hiawatha in
from
I could hardly believe my good fortune after all the
months of checking the web site and calling the 800 number in the middle of the
night. I hurried over to the ticket
office where a number of agents are located behind a counter much like tellers
in a bank. The line was short and it was
only
charge, it was
I stepped up to the counter in the Metropolitan Lounge,
where the attendant checked my tickets.
He said they had just finished boarding the First Class passengers and
sent me to the regular waiting room to board with the other passengers waiting
at gate C. I didn't have much
opportunity to look at the
interior of the Metropolitan Lounge this time, but the seating seems to have
been reconfigured since I was there last in 1997. A bank of pay phones blocks the view of the
majority of the room and there are seats in the corner where the luggage was formerly
kept.
When I arrived at the regular waiting room area where
boarding gates C through F are located, I observed that some seating appears to
have been reconfigured there, too. I
last used the regular waiting area in 1995.
The following year I began traveling First Class on all my trips. There is now additional seating in the area
between the gates and the main waiting room area, with sections separated by
webs and standards for each gate area. I
don't recall it being that way before.
As I have previously experienced, people frequently ask
me questions such as where gate C is or where are the restrooms. In stores, customers occasionally mistake me
for a clerk and ask me about merchandise.
When I'm wearing traveling clothes and pulling a suitcase, I know I'm
not being mistaken for an Amtrak employee.
They must be asking me because they think I look like a seasoned
traveler.
At
When I reached the 0531 car, a Superliner
II sleeper conveniently located ahead of the diner, the attendant was nowhere
in sight. This didn't surprise me, since
she wasn't expecting one more passenger.
As I was stowing my suitcase in the lower level compartment, she
returned
from greeting her other passengers. I explained that I was assigned to number 11, the upgrade I had just received. She said that explained why I wasn't listed on her manifest. As I began settling into number 11, she introduced herself as Morgana. She ran through some basic information after ascertaining that I have ridden enough to know where everything is and how it works. Coffee and juice was already available upstairs and would be in the morning, too.
Morgana seemed very efficient, even to the point where she said she would be
available in the car at all times except for her meal breaks, which she would
announce when she left. I also learned
something about one of the large groups on the train. They were from
to be in that car until
detraining in
In my room were fliers about the 50th anniversary of the
refreshment area. Those were all nice touches, but now I'm just
thankful that we still have trains to ride.
A couple of weeks before my trip, I had read about Steve
Reynolds' first experience in a lower level room and now I was having my first lower
level experience. Given a choice, I
prefer the upper level, north side of the train, and there I was on the lower
level, south side. Frankly, I was so
pleased to have the upgrade that it didn't matter to me at all. I'm always in the sightseer lounge car when
we go through the most scenic parts so I can see out both sides of the train. In some respects, the lower level is more convenient. For one, there are more bathrooms in close
proximity. My room was right next to the
luggage rack, providing convenient access to my large suitcase. Since I thought I might make the entire trip
in coach, I had packed things in that suitcase that I would now want to use,
such as sleepwear and different changes of clothing.
I always have fun riding Amtrak, but I was about to have
more fun than ever on this trip. I would
meet many people either going to the same convention as I was, just to Railfair, or including Railfair
in their family vacation. With those
things in common, we became even more like a family than is usual on a train
trip.
The Zephyr departed
PM, since all I had
eaten since a
waiting to board the
Hiawatha. Martin had already announced
the menu items and procedures for making reservations. Since I don't eat much red meat at home, I
had my mouth all set for the
At
The table was set with regular dinnerware and utensils,
which I was relieved to see after last year's experiment with foam plates and plastic
utensils on some routes. Our waiter,
Wilson, took our orders and we all began our meals with a green salad. Next, I had the steak and chose rice instead
of potatoes, accompanied by edible pod green peas and a dinner roll. The woman and the college girl both had Chicken
Kiev and Charlie had salmon. He and I
both had apple pie for dessert and the college girl had "Ice Cream Turtle
Delight." This delicacy looked like
a slice of white layer cake with chocolate frosting, but was actually vanilla
ice cream with a dark cookie crust on the bottom, chocolate coating on the top,
and further decorated with
whipped cream.
I didn't order the "turtle" because I thought
it might be too rich. I seldom eat
dessert at home, but occasionally do when dining at a restaurant where dessert
is included or is a specialty. One of my
friends is a very bad influence when it comes to encouraging me to join
him in having dessert. After I saw how good the "turtle"
looked, I was hoping it would still be on the menu during the rest of the trip.
Charlie already had an eventful trip before boarding the
Zephyr. He hadn't even planned to take
the Zephyr from
resulting in Amtrak lodging him
at the Hilton Hotel on
for the first night of his hotel
reservation there and would lose a day at Railfair. By taking the Zephyr instead of the Builder
and the Starlight, he saved a day. His
plans upon leaving the convention were to take the Coast Starlight to
trains at
Upon leaving the diner, I went to the lower level of the
lounge car to check on souvenir items.
When I last rode the Zephyr in 1997 from
weren't listed on the menu, so I
asked the attendant, Kenneth Stephans. Unfortunately, they were discontinued two
years ago, apparently shortly after my last trip. Well, maybe I'll find one in a railroadiana show sometime.
I'm not surprised that the gift amenities have been
discontinued, but I would have
expected as many, if not more, souvenir items available for sale.
All was going well time-wise until we reached
real reason and I didn't yet,
either, because of having my radio put away during dinner. Several of the English people wanted to walk
up the platform to photograph the consist and the
certain they would all reboard before the train moved again to spot the coach cars
by the waiting coach passengers.
We experienced another delay just before crossing the
Before we moved again, the operating crew made a
different connection between the engines and the rest of the train with a
"short loop" to one of the other lead units. However, there was still a problem, as after
that we lost power whenever the train slowed to less than 7 MPH.
We were one hour late into
At
connected to the opposite side
from where they had it connected. Perhaps
that was corrected at
Morgana had my bed ready with
mints on the pillow when I returned to my room after the movie. I followed Martin's direction to set my watch
back one hour for Mountain Time before I turned out my lights. Despite having my radio plugged into my ear,
I slept soundly through our stop
at
I don't know how many extended stops we made overnight,
but by the time we arrived at McCook, NE we were two hours late.
I started to the diner at
Martin gave me a slip with number 9, so I waited in the
lounge for my number to be called.
Thinking it over, I realized all these people arose especially early
because they either forgot to change their watches or their "internal
clocks" were still on Central time. Also, some had to eat early because they would
be leaving the train at
carefully.
Martin seated me with a couple from
Meanwhile, Morgana was busy
remaking almost every room in her sleeper, since all the English people were
leaving. We arrived in
there was still enough time
during the service stop for me to enter the station, make a phone
call, mail a letter, and take note of the face that
Grandpa's railroadiana shop is back in its corner of
the station. I made some purchases there
in 1994, but in 1995 I found the space
usurped by storage and the shop
moved to a building down the street. I had
some free time in
but a closed sign was
posted. A man wheeled a cart in and came
out again, so I asked him if it was going to be open. He said it normally would be, but they were
moving equipment that day. He was going
to try to have it open a couple of evenings during the week when the eastbound
Zephyr would be carrying people returning from Railfair and the convention.
Back on the platform, I walked the length of the train to
list the consist for those who are interested. Charlie, the NRHS member who was at my table
for dinner the previous night, was doing the same
thing and a number of people were taking pictures. It was hot in
all like the 60 degrees I heard
on the HBDs (hot box detectors) earlier that
morning. I switched my radio to NOAA
Weather and heard that they expected temperatures in the nineties by afternoon.
With all the English people having detrained there, the
luggage compartment in the sleeper was almost empty. I had easier access to my suitcase, so pulled
out a pair of shorts. I would have my
carry-on better organized on the return trip when I already knew I would have a
standard bedroom.
We left
eating during the great scenery
that was about to begin, but I didn't want to eat near the end of the lunch
service because of that being too close to dinner. I decided to go as soon as the diner opened
and was seated this time with a college-age boy, Russ, and two girls from New
We went through a few of the thirty-seven tunnels before
we finished eating, but I was in the lounge car and even had a seat on the
north side before the most dramatic scenery began--the rest of the tunnels including
the 6.2 mile Moffat tunnel, mountain-side tracks
through the
Someone was missing on that train. I hadn't seen or heard from a Chief of
On-Board Service. While there had been
announcements of some sights of particular interest such as the
Admiral," was on the train and would describe the
area we were passing through. His
commentary added greatly to the trip, especially for any first-time Zephyr
passenger. He mentioned the names of
some videos that include Amtrak employees.
One of the conductors from
the American Orient Express
video, "National Parks of the West by Train." The Admiral himself is interviewed in "
Around
The eastbound Zephyr, train number 6, was running late,
too. We passed them at
more New Yorkers--two men going to Railfair
and a man from
the other man and I both had
prime rib. All were served with salad, corn,
either potato or rice, and dinner roll.
All four of us decided on the turtle pie for dessert. It definitely wasn't "lo-cal," but
it wasn't as rich as I had thought it might be.
In fact, I was sorry I
hadn't tried it sooner.
Before leaving the diner, I asked Martin if he knew what
the movie would be that night. He said
Ken was in charge of that choice. I returned
to my room to wait for the stop at
There's a little shop at one end of the present station
that sells snack items, a few souvenirs, books, and sundries. The last thing I needed was snacks! Ken was there looking at the merchandise and
told me the movie would be "The Water Boy," starring Henry
Winkler. I told
him I really liked "Mighty
Joe Young," but wasn't as enthusiastic about the sound of this movie. He said it was a comedy and encouraged me to check
it out. It sounded as though it would be
rather simple, but I thought I would at least start to watch it.
We left
When I returned to my room, Morgana
had my bed ready again. I soon heard the
daily announcement about setting our watches ahead one hour before going to
sleep, since we would enter the Pacific time zone during
the night. The dining car would open for
breakfast at
curtains drawn after dark and
during the night. When I'm in an upper level
room, I can keep the curtains open to see out the windows during the night.
The only other people on the lower level after
other side of the train through
the empty room. With all the empty rooms,
I was really puzzled about the sleepers being sold out. Also, there were only three revenue sleepers
on the train, not the limit of four as I had been told early in my efforts to
book a bedroom. I never did observe a
second large group. Perhaps some tour
had cancelled as one early AM ticket agent said often happens.
About the time I was ready to turn out my lights, we made
a stop at Helper, UT, two hours and fifty-five minutes
late. According to the HBD, the outside
temperature was 66 degrees. I slept
extremely well all night, despite my radio plugged into my ear.
I had intended to look out the window when we reached
light out. I would have liked to watch the scenery, desert lined with snow-capped mountains, but fell
asleep until almost
seem to make the most of my time
there.
By the time I arose, I was convinced that my radio
batteries must have died since I couldn't recall having heard even an HBD for a
long time. I must have just slept that
soundly, because we soon passed one of the SP detectors with a female voice who
informed me, along with the
standard information, that it
was only 46 degrees outside. Now it was the
start of my last day on the Zephyr.
Although I was anxious to see Railfair and
participate in the convention activities, I felt as though I still wanted one
more day on the train. That's typical of
me when I'm having a good time somewhere.
I wonder if one more day would ever be enough!
I waited until after our
central
to fly. It was the man's first time on a train in
thirty years. Since John and I both
monitor rail communications on the train, we all engaged in conversation about
rail experiences, attractions, and communications. While passing our table, Martin admired my
Michael Brown, our waiter, brought my scrambled eggs,
sausage, hash browns, biscuit, yogurt, coffee, and juice. I was too involved in the conversation to
notice what the others ordered. Although
I don't usually order anything that comes with hash browns, on Amtrak they're more
tasty and not greasy, my usual objection to them.
After breakfast, John and I adjourned to the lounge car
to continue our conversation, watch the scenery, and listen to rail
communications. We also talked to some
others going to Railfair and a conductor from
with John about the
Next I went to the lower lounge to use my free beverage
coupon. Ken told the other people at his
counter that I only come to see him if he shows a movie. With more movies like the last one, I
probably wouldn't come to see him even for that! The way they feed me in the diner, I
wouldn't need to come to his
counter at all. I returned to the upper lounge
until close to the time for the service stop at
At
When they gave the "all aboard" call, I
returned to the coolness of my room.
Just before the train started to move, Morgana
came to check that I had returned to the train.
She knew I had been off, but I had "sneaked" on while she was
answering someone's questions about newspapers.
We talked until the stop in
As soon as we left
had beef burgers. Amtrak's beef burgers are delicious, but I
was trying to eat a lighter lunch. We
all had turtle pie for dessert. They
must have an unlimited supply of that delicacy.
During the meal, Martin became included in our conversation. We learned that before
coming to work for Amtrak last
year, he was night manager at the downtown Ramada Inn in
After lunch I returned to my room for my notebook and
camera, then proceeded to the lounge for my last
afternoon and the scenery of the Sierra Nevadas and
time on the train when I don't
have a connection to make. Looking over my
travelogue, I needed some last minute details.
On my way into the lounge, I passed Ken going for his lunch break. One of the details I needed was his name,
since he doesn't wear a name tag. He
said he'd
give me his card if I'd say
something nice about him. I guess I
already mentioned his helpful nature, pleasant personality, and friendly smile.
Going through the Sierra Nevadas,
true to their name meaning of "snowy mountains," we passed patches of
snow on the slopes among the trees. What
a change from the heat at
refreshing change to return to
the evergreen and deciduous tree terrain as in the area where I live. We passed the Saturday departure of the number
6 Zephyr in the
Martin made the dining car closing announcement as we
left Colfax, 2.75 hours late at
at their favorite restaurant, wherever
they would all soon be detraining.
I hate good-byes.
Shortly before
completely to myself all day,
although I hadn't been there much that day to take advantage of it.
At
walk even though NOAA Weather on
my radio had told me the temperature was 96 degrees in
Mercifully, the 96 degrees in
CONSIST:
P42
96
P42
41
F40PH
313
MHC
1445
Baggage car
1218
Transition Sleeper
39005
Superliner I Sleeper 32011
Superliner II Sleeper 32091 "
Superliner II Sleeper 32074 "
Diner
38009
Sightseer Lounge
33019
Coach (with smoker)
31500
Coach
34063
Coach
34066
Coach
34020
MHC AMTK 71196 (mail?)
CREW:
CHIEF OF ON-BOARD SERVICE None
DINING CAR STEWARD Martin Schall
LSA (Lead Service Attendant) Kenneth Stephans
SLEEPER ATTENDANT Morgana
DINER ATTENDANTS
Margaret
Michael Brown
CONDUCTORS Don Hulse
(
T. A. Morris (
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Copyright © 1999 by Carol Larsen