SUMMER 1999 AMTRAK TRAVELOGUE

PART IV OF V

THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR

 

by Carol Larsen

   ka9hfa@arrl.net

 

MONDAY, JUNE 28, 1999

 

I awoke that morning with even more feelings of nostalgia.  Not only had the convention and Railfair ended, but it was time to finish packing to leave my nice room overlooking the Amtrak station platform.  My train, the number 6 eastbound California Zephyr, was scheduled to leave at 12:05, so I still had plenty of free time.  When the packing process was finished, I went downstairs to settle my hotel bill at the front desk.  Now it was even more obvious that the scene had changed at the hotel.  Business meetings were taking place in the conference rooms

instead of rail events and the people in the public areas were no longer those wearing rail convention tags.

 

I stepped outside the hotel and noticed more changes from the previous Monday.  With Railfair over, there were few people heading into the passageway to Old Sacramento.  I thought about going there to possibly see some of the locomotives leaving, but decided against that.  At the

time, I preferred to remember the grounds as they had been all the previous week.  I thought about what it would be like to return to Sacramento another summer soon and stay at the same hotel while visiting the railroad museum.  Then I realized that Sacramento wouldn't be the same for me as it was that week.  It was the camaraderie of the convention and the excitement of Railfair that made it so special.  By the time the next Railfair is held there, I may not be able to attend for some reason or to approach it with the same vigor as now.

 

Back in my room, I observed the vintage UP consist at the railroad station, preparing to leave.  At 11:15 I brought my luggage to the lobby and took a cab to the Amtrak station.  I didn't want to walk this time, in the mid-day heat and with all the extra pounds of souvenirs and literature I was bringing home.  The cab driver was a young woman who grew up near Wasilla, Alaska, an area I visited three years ago.  When she lifted my deceptively medium-size suitcase into the trunk of the cab, she commented, "What on earth have you got in here?"  When she

lifted it out at the station, "This thing sure is heavy!"  I positioned my shoulder carry-on atop the upright case and wheeled on through the depot.  It was dim and slightly stuffy inside, so I opted for one of the benches on the platform.

 

With the sun overhead, the benches were all shaded by the platform roof and cooled by a light breeze blowing.  I took out my camera for some photos of the Capitols consist on the opposite track and plugged my radio into my ear for word on train number 6.  At 11:55, I moved farther down the platform to where I estimated the sleepers would stop.  Soon I heard on my radio that the Zephyr was approaching and saw its headlight as it crossed the lower level of the bridge over the Sacramento River, adjacent to the railroad museum.  I shot a couple of photos, then zipped both radio and camera into my tote as the train pulled to a stop.

 

My car, the 0633, was just one car down from where I was standing.  The conductor came along the platform from the 0633 car, directing people to the proper sleeper.  My sleeper attendant, Jay, was there to greet me, lifting my heavy suitcase into the car and then onto a shelf.  I

knew from the configuration of the luggage compartment that this was a Superliner I sleeper and observed that it still had the orange and red color scheme.  The seat upholstery pattern may have been updated from the original.  Jay told me where everything was located, even though he

asked if I had ever ridden before.  He also said he would bring my lunch reservation number to my room as soon as we were under way.  Jay would prove to be one of the friendliest and most accommodating car attendants I've ever had.  I pulled my "onboard wardrobe" bag out of the front pouch of my suitcase and proceeded upstairs to room 4, my home for the next two days on my favorite side of the car.  If I thought I had fun on the trip out to Sacramento, this leg of my journey was about to far surpass that.

 

The air conditioning was working in good form, which felt really good after the heat outdoors.  As I was settling in, the conductor announced we should have our tickets ready as he would be coming through the cars to collect them.  Jay came shortly after the conductor, bringing me a

number 10 lunch reservation number and my free beverage coupon.  The dining car steward, Calvin, was calling number 1, so I knew I wouldn't have long to wait.  I was very hungry, having eaten only a breakfast bar that morning.  Knowing that the two-day feeding frenzy was about to begin again, I was watching my meal quantities.

 

About that time, I heard the man in room 6 asking Jay what frequency the crew radios would be on.  I'm usually skeptical about the attitude of the service and operating crews toward passengers monitoring rail frequencies and keep a low profile with my equipment in their presence.  However, Jay seemed to be quite open to the idea.  He told the man that the crew radios went by channel numbers, but he'd find out about the frequency.  Jay started to ask the man across the aisle from me in room 3, but I had already chimed in with "161.550."  This was the start of my learning how many NRHS people were traveling with me.  The man in room 6, Hank, was fellow Ham radio operator N8XX.  He and his wife were returning home to Ohio from the NRHS convention.  I loaned him my sheet of CZ rail frequencies and my Amateur Radio repeater directory.  The man in room 3, Alan, was also an NRHS member.  He knew about Ham radio because his brother in New Jersey is a Ham.  Alan stayed at a friend's house during the convention and not in Sacramento, so he was already on the train when I boarded.

 

About that time, my lunch number was called, so I headed to the diner.  On my way, I noticed that the other two sleepers were also Superliner I's, the 0632 car being one of the refurbished cars with the blue decor.  The 0632 car was connected in the opposite direction from normal.  Calvin seated me with a man and his daughter, Julie, a girl in her early 20's.  They were returning home to Long Island, NY from the NRHS convention.  Since I knew that I would have a big dinner, when the waitress came I ordered the soup (beef vegetable) and salad selection

with a refreshing glass of iced tea.  Julie and her father had chicken breast sandwiches.  She skipped the dessert, but her father and I both had that wonderful ice cream turtle pie, which I was pleased to see on the menu again.  The conversation centered on how enjoyable it is to

see the wonders of our country by train and what people who haven't done that are missing.  We also compared notes on the NRHS rail excursions of the past week.

 

Back in my room, I decided the air conditioning now felt too cold.  I closed the vent and turned the temperature dial to the "warmer" setting, for whatever that was worth.  These dials frequently have little effect, but I'm usually trying for more cool air, not less.

 

A lady from the railroad museum in Sacramento had begun periodic historical comments on the area, staying on board all the way to Reno.  Around 1:20, the train stopped just short of Colfax.  The conductor announced that we would be delayed ten or fifteen minutes by some track

work they had expected to complete in time for us to pass.  We were stopped somewhat longer than expected. 

 

I spent the remainder of the afternoon in my room, trying to write notes for this travelogue, but being distracted by the beautiful scenery of the Sierra Nevadas and the Donner Pass area.  At 4:10, just before reaching Donner Pass, we passed the vintage UP consist waiting in a siding.  A diesel helper was at the lead, followed by the 3985, tenders, the disabled 844, and the remainder of the cars.  The 3985 was under steam, despite having been removed from the Saturday excursion as a precautionary measure.

 

Shortly after that, Greg, the Chief of On-Board Service, came through the cars to take dinner reservations.  I chose 5:30, the earliest seating, with the idea of possibly finishing in time to walk the platform during the service stop at Sparks, Nevada.  This might be possible because by our 4:38 PM stop in Truckee, CA, we were running about one hour late.

 

When the 5:30 dinner call came, Calvin seated me at "the singles table" with three men, one of whom was Alan from room 3.  One of the other men was also an NRHS member and was returning to Ohio.  The third man was from Santa Rosa, going to a pulp magazine collectors convention out

east.  The three of us NRHS members probably regaled him with more convention excursion stories than he could ever expect to hear!  In turn, we were able to give him rail travel advice on several topics, including tipping.  In the course of the conversation, I found that Alan was sitting across the aisle from me on the steam excursion to Tehama on Wednesday.  We didn't recognize each other, but when he mentioned that the friend he had stayed with is Gene Poon who writes for Rail Travel News, I remembered hearing that about the other man across the aisle from me on the excursion.  When our waitress came, she was the same waitress as I had at lunch, a girl who wasn't wearing a name tag.  I had the New York strip steak and the men all had the

salmon entree.  We all chose the turtle pie for dessert.

 

The train must have made up time after being almost an hour late at Truckee, because we made the entire service stop at Sparks during dinner.  So much for wearing off my meal by walking the platform!  Actually, we had a long 1-1/4 hour dinner during our conversation.  Even though the dinner seatings were all full except for 8:30, there were some empty tables and we didn't feel rushed to leave.

 

After we returned to our sleeping cars, it was announced that the movie that evening would be "The Water Boy," which I knew I would skip after seeing it on the trip west.  Instead, a major confab developed in my room between Jay and Alan.  Not only had Alan stayed with his friend,

Gene Poon, in California, but he and Gene had ridden the inaugural run of the new Heartland Flier before coming to the convention.  I wished that I could have fit that into my plans.  Not only would it have given me a ride on a new Amtrak route, but I would also have been to one of

the last two states I have yet to visit, Oklahoma.  In addition to discussing all types of train and radio topics, I found that Jay owns property just outside the city where I live and is a friend of some people I know.

 

Jay announced that everyone should turn their watches ahead one hour for Mountain time before they went to bed.  Alan was keeping his watch on Eastern time during his entire trip.  It was now 10:00 PM for him, so he decided to turn in for the night.  I thought it was still way too

early for that.  I planned to read, listen to my radios, and catch up on travelogue notes for awhile.  I asked Jay to have mine the last bed he made up, which he said he'd do right after our stop at Elko, NV.  Even at home, I never like to end an enjoyable day, but I also like to see the sun rise.  These two plans don't agree that well.

 

While listening to my radios, I found a frequency in use by HBDs and our crew that I didn't have on my list: 160.470.  I thought back to my westward trip through that area.  Since I wasn't monitoring that frequency then, it was probably the reason why I didn't hear any HBDs

or other communications in that area.  Now I heard that at 9:40 PM PDT the temperature was 66 degrees and we had 72 axles. 

 

We pulled into Elko just before 11:00 PM PDT, about an hour late again.  That would be midnight in Mountain time.  Losing an hour a day on the trip east is a real nuisance, making a short night for me.  I stepped out of my room long enough for Jay to make up my bed.  When I turned

out the lights, I saw the landscape lit by a beautiful almost-full moon.

 

TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 1999

 

I slept so well that I didn't wake up until we were stopped at Salt Lake City around 4:45 AM.  Peeking around the curtain, I recognized the station, then put my head back on the pillow.  I think I had been dreaming something train-related, probably from what my subconscious was hearing on the radio while I slept.  The next thing I knew, we were stopping at Provo, UT at 6:00 AM, having made up all but half an hour overnight.  I was so comfortable in my bed that I didn't get up then when I should have.  When I went down the hall to wash up, that smart Alan who had turned in early already had his bed made and was sitting up in his room.  I made a mental note to try to turn in earlier that night.

 

It was 7:30 by the time I headed for the diner, where Greg gave me reservation number 22.  Calvin was just calling number 1, so I adjourned to the Sightseer lounge car to enjoy the passing scenery of eastern Utah.  That had been a distraction while I was trying to get

ready for breakfast.  We made our stop at Helper, UT while I was in the lounge.  Further down the car, I could hear "NRHS" being mentioned by several people, so I knew this was a train full of NRHS members again. 

 

It was very cold in the lounge car, but in taking a seat on the sunny side, I soon warmed up.  The HBDs were saying it was 72 degrees outside, considerably warmer than the 46 degrees I heard during the night.  They now reported 76 axles, so I thought we must have picked up an MHC or mail car, probably at Salt Lake City.  It was 9:00 by the time Calvin called my number for breakfast.  I knew what I was letting myself in for when I stayed in bed late, so I really had to plan on getting there earlier the next morning.

 

I was seated at Kathleen's table with a couple from the northwest side of Chicago and their son, Austin.  He was named for the neighborhood they had lived in on the far west side of Chicago.  I, too, had lived in the Austin neighborhood at one time.  They had come to  California on the Southwest Chief, visited relatives and friends along the coast, and were now returning home.  They used to vacation in the area of Wisconsin where I now live, so we had a lot about Chicago and Wisconsin to discuss.  When we left the diner, Calvin was still calling numbers for breakfast, the final one being 44.  They were still serving breakfast well after 10:00 AM!

 

The rest of the morning went quickly, including visiting with Alan in our car.  We heard an HBD report of only 72 axles again and couldn't understand how we had gone from 76 back to 72 without a stop to drop off a car.  Hank came over from room 6 and commented on the same thing.

 

Our train was only 10-15 minutes behind schedule when we made our crew change stop at Grand Junction, CO.  We were there close to twenty minutes, allowing people to stretch their legs and look in the little store in the depot.  I walked part of the train length, taking car numbers in the consist.  Alan had already given me some numbers.  When I returned to the car, Jay was giving Alan part of his manifest with all the car numbers.  We were surprised to note that even the end-of-train device had a number.  When we left Grand Junction at 11:40, it was almost time for lunch, which I wanted to finish before Glenwood Springs where the most spectacular scenery begins.

 

Calvin announced the lunch menu and said that the soup and salad entrée (my favorite) wouldn't be available because of short preparation time between breakfast and lunch.  When I arrived in the diner, he seated me with a woman from the far south side of Chicago who was returning from

visiting in California and a man, Peter, from Edina, MN.  He and his cousin George from Stowe, VT (who hadn't come to the diner), had left from Minneapolis on the Empire Builder to Portland, taken the Coast Starlight to Oakland, spent time in San Francisco, and were returning to Minneapolis via Chicago.  My two table partners had beef burgers while I had the vegetarian fettuccini, an excellent substitute for the soup and salad.  Now I know why Steve Grande raves about the vegetarian selections.  The man and I both had turtle pie for dessert.

 

When I left the diner, I proceeded to the lounge car, first going downstairs to inquire about souvenirs.  I wanted to see if they had some on this train that weren't on number 5 going out.  The attendant gave me some good hints on ordering souvenir items from various routes, some of which Alan and l had ready discussed.  I have since contacted the company in Itasca, IL that she recommended, only to learn that they don't sell any items other than those listed on the Amtrak web site.  They sent me a small catalog, but it didn't contain anything additional

of interest to me.

 

Back upstairs in the lounge car, I found a seat on the north side of the train, the best side for the scenery which would begin around Glenwood Springs.  "The Admiral," assistant conductor Don Hulse, was on my train again, doing his interesting commentary.  Glenwood Canyon is my favorite part, as I've been through there both by train and motor coach several times.  By the time we reached Red Canyon, there were clouds in the sky, the first clouds I had seen since spending almost two weeks in bright blue skies.  In the Dale Canyon area, we passed California Zephyr number 5 sitting in a siding.  I had stupidly not brought my camera with me to lunch, having photographed this area several times before.  With our trains in a curve, I could have taken some great photos of our passing.

 

At 3:00 when we had passed through the most dramatic canyon areas, Greg announced he would be starting in the sleepers to take dinner reservations, with serving beginning at 4:30 due to our expected 7:30 arrival in Denver.  I took the 5:00 seating, as did Alan.  He, Jay, and I chatted for the rest of the afternoon.  Jay confirmed that there are plans to discontinue the Chief of On-Board Service position on all the trains as of August 1.

 

Alan and I sat at the same table for dinner, along with a woman of German descent and her 14-year-old son, who were going to Denver and the Black Hills.  Again the waitress was the girl with no name tag.  By then I should have asked her for her name.  I had the prime rib, Alan

and the boy had the chicken entree, and the woman had stuffed trout.  For dessert, Alan and I had turtle pie and the boy chose cheesecake.  While we ate, we passed through Moffat tunnel, the effect of which wasn't as great in the diner as in the Sightseer lounge or other cars.

 

After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the last of the Rocky Mountain scenery--tunnels, river valleys, and arrival into Denver.  As we descended from the last tunnel, we could see a "mile-long" coal train with five diesels waiting in a siding for us to pass.  It was amazing all day that our train was dispatched through while freight trains waited.  The only delay that UP gave us was the track work near Colfax at the beginning of the trip.  Our luck did run out when we had to wait to back into the station at Denver, but the delay wasn't that great.  We were in by 8:00 PM instead of 7:40.  I made a dash for the station, hoping to find Grandpa's shop open as the man who was there on my trip out had said it might be.  No, it was posted "closed for inventory and restocking," apparently after their booth at the railroadiana show in Sacramento.  On the way to the phones to check my answering machine at home, I found Alan who had already discovered that the shop I told him about was closed.

 

Back on the platform, I visited with others from my car.  Hank and his wife were there, with Hank trying unsuccessfully to make Ham radio contacts on his 2-meter band handheld transceiver.  I've never had any luck, either, with making Ham radio contacts from the train, which is

why I concentrate almost exclusively on monitoring rail frequencies instead.  Peter, the man from Edina, MN who was at my table for lunch, was there with his cousin George whom I hadn't met before.  They asked me if I worked for Amtrak since I was "always writing."  I didn't quite

understand the correlation, since my white shorts and blue striped top didn't look like business attire.  When I told them I work for the school district where I live, it turned out that I know George's niece, our curriculum director.  Here was another example of "small world."

 

We soon reboarded the train which started to move at 8:50 PM.  Suddenly there were several excited announcements on the intercom by service staff members, "Conductor, there are visitors on the train!"  These were followed by the conductor telling the engineer on the radio to

stop the train because there were still visitors aboard.  Those visitors must have detrained on the run, because the train barely stopped!  I don't know which would be worse--not being on the train when you wanted to be or being on the train when you didn't want to be.

 

As soon as the train was underway again, the evening movie was announced.  I was told earlier that it would be "Mighty Joe Young," which I had seen on the trip out.  For whatever reason, they decided to change it to a Star Trek flick.  Although I hadn't already seen that one, I'm not a "Trekkie," so decided to forego watching that, too.

 

Tonight was another night for setting our watches ahead, this time to Central Time.  That made it after 10:00 PM and impressed upon me the fact that I would soon be home again.  Still hoping for an early start with breakfast the next morning to maximize my last day on the train, I had Jay make up my bed shortly after 11:00.  There was no big, beautiful moon visible that night, as it had been cloudy with lightening around the perimeter at Denver.  I went to sleep shortly

thereafter without sitting up to look out the window.

 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 30, 1999

 

My early start for breakfast in the morning was 6:50 AM, not much earlier than the days before.  However, I was seated immediately because there were fewer people on the train by then.  At Hussin Muhammed's table, I was joined by a woman and her son from northern California who were going to Michigan and a man from New York City, all of whom were "non-rail" people.  While I enjoyed my usual Amtrak breakfast fare, the discussion centered on growing produce in California and the way water is used and billed in various parts of the country.  Our stop at Omaha came during breakfast.

 

Back in the sleeper, Jay had the rooms made up again.  I settled down with my radios to enjoy the Iowa scenery, much flatter than the previous day's spectacular mountain terrain.  Jay told Alan and me that he would introduce us to Don Novak, the engineer who would take the train from Ottumwa, IA into Chicago.  Don lives in the Omaha area and had boarded there.  He was very sociable and talked with us most of the remainder of the morning.  Also joining in our  conversation was a BNSF dispatcher from Texas, going to Chicago for a seminar.  He happened

into our discussions while passing through the car.

 

Don is another crew member who was supportive of our monitoring their radio transmissions.  He told us he would say something to us on the radio when we left Ottumwa.  He also said that when we detrained in Chicago, we should be sure to meet him at the head of the train where he would let us climb up into the cab.  When I expressed a concern that I might not have time if I wanted to catch the 5:08 Hiawatha, he said he'd be pulling into the station nose first and we had to pass there anyway on our way into the station.

 

As we neared Ottumwa, Don excused himself to prepare for his stint at the controls.  True to his word, when we departed Ottumwa at 11:20, Alan and I heard on our radios, "Carol and Al, hang on!"  I wonder how many other people heard that and wondered who Carol and Al were?

 

I went to the diner for lunch at 11:30 and was seated again at Hussin's table.  I was once again in the company of NRHS people, Mike and Lynn Burshtin from the national office in Philadelphia.  I had seen them preparing to leave the Holiday Inn when I was going by cab to the train station.  After enjoying the vegetarian selection of fettuccini the day before, I again chose the vegetarian entree which was tortellini.  I've missed something good all these years on Amtrak by steering away from anything called "vegetarian."  I should have taken heed of Steve Grande's recommendations.  I planned to order the turtle pie for dessert one last time.  However, before Hussin came for our dessert orders, Alan passed our table and informed us that his table had eaten the last "turtles."  The turtle pie was so popular, I'm surprised it lasted that long!

 

Before returning to my room after lunch, I decided to exchange my free beverage coupon in the lower level of the lounge car.  On my way past Greg, I mentioned to him that I thought the tortellini was excellent.  He said he had chosen it, too, and agreed with me.  After selecting a Diet Pepsi in exchange for my coupon, I passed through the diner again.  Calvin stopped me by saying, "Are you going to tip-toe through here without saying good-bye?"  I had been hoping to avoid good-byes since I hate them anyway, wishing to concentrate on having almost four more

hours on the train instead of thinking of it as the trip being almost over.  After I said good-bye to Calvin, Hussin also said, "Good-bye, Carol," to me.

 

I should have spent more time in the lounge car toward the end of the trip.  There were some people I met on the trip out with whom I would have liked to compare notes on our stays in California.  However, I spent the rest of afternoon in my room, reminiscing over the past two

weeks, listening to my radios, and enjoying the scenery.  I hoped we would make up some time to allow me the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to climb aboard an Amtrak P42 and still be able to catch the 5:08 Hiawatha.  If I missed that train, the next one wouldn't leave Chicago until 8:05 PM, arriving in Milwaukee at 9:37.  I thought it wouldn't be fair to keep my ride, Gary, waiting in Milwaukee for three more hours because I missed the earlier train while "playing engineer."  Jay said he would be taking the Hiawatha, too, and also hoped to make the 5:08.

 

With thoughts on my return home, I switched frequencies to NOAA weather to preview temperatures in the Chicago and Milwaukee areas.  I couldn't have been happier than to learn that pleasant summer temperatures and low humidity prevailed.  I wouldn't relish wheeling my load of luggage

along the platform in the train shed with the kind of hot, sticky summer weather that can be typical for Chicago. 

 

As we neared Chicago, some of the schedule padding had taken effect.  We were only forty minutes late then, which would allow me enough time to meet Don at the engine and still catch the 5:08 Hiawatha.  Shortly before our arrival, Jay brought a friend of his, Steve, to detrain with Alan and me for meeting Don at the head end.  We arrived at 4:20, allowing plenty of time before the Hiawatha departure. 

 

Steve, Alan, and I detrained with all our luggage and proceeded down the platform to the lead engine where Don joined us.  Don stayed on the platform to watch our luggage while each of us had our chance to climb aboard.  I think they were a little concerned that I might not have the

technique to negotiate going up and down the ladder.  However, my experience climbing my radio tower at home held me in good stead. 

 

What a thrill that was--much more impressive than viewing the controls in the engines at Railfair or in a static museum display.  Thinking about the Amtrak videos in my collection that include cab views, I examined the controls, sat in the seats, and looked through the windows

as the engineer would.  I had never thought I would actually be there!

 

While we were standing by the engine, talking and taking photos, some of the other people I met on the train passed and waved good-bye.  I supposed the passengers coming down the platform must have wondered how we were lucky enough to be allowed into the engine.  Perhaps some of

them decided I must be an Amtrak employee after all!  Don said something about sending me some Amtrak items, but he never did.

 

When we had all taken our turns viewing the inside of the cab, it was time for us to thank Don for the great opportunity and go our separate ways.  Steve needed to claim his checked baggage, Alan wanted to beat the rush to a special restaurant for dinner before his next connection,

and I was off to the Hiawatha with twenty-three minutes to spare.

 

 

CONSIST:

P42                    16

P42                    25

F40PH                  402

Baggage                1209

Transition Sleeper     39018

Superliner I Sleeper   32044

Superliner I Sleeper   32052  (refurbished)

Superliner I Sleeper   32040

Diner                  38035

Sightseer Lounge       33047

Coach (with smoker)    31545

Coach                  34038

Coach                  34098

Coach                  34014

MHC (mail)             1533

MHC                    71172

MHC                    70019

MHC                    71102

MHC                    1740   (from Denver)

End-of-train device    23409

 

CREW:

CHIEF OF ON-BOARD SERVICE    Greg Granato

DINING CAR STEWARD           Calvin

SLEEPER ATTENDANT            Jay Slinde

DINER ATTENDANTS             Kathleen

                             Hussin W. Muhammed

ENGINEER                     Don Novak (Ottumwa, IA to Chicago)

CONDUCTORS                   Don Hulse (Grand Junction to Denver)

                             J. W. Fitzgerald (Ottumwa, IA to Chicago)

 

 

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Copyright © 1999 by Carol Larsen