SUMMER 2002
AMTRAK TRAVELOGUE
PART III OF
V
NATIONAL
RAILWAY HISTORICAL SOCIETY CONVENTION
"CANYON
RAILS 2002"
(
by Carol Larsen
This segment of the travelogue is a chronicle of my
experiences and impressions during the week, rather than being a report on the
NRHS Convention.
When it was first announced a couple of years ago that
the 2002 convention would be in Williams, AZ, I was especially excited at the
prospect. It would be an opportunity for
a long distance ride on Amtrak again; I love National Parks and looked forward
to another visit to the
Grand Canyon; I had yet to ride the Grand Canyon Railway
or the Verde Canyon Railway; I had followed news on the building of the new
Fray Marcos Hotel and looked forward to staying there; Williams is on Route 66,
which peaks my interest for its nostalgic aspects and is a trip I would like to
make in its semi-entirety someday.
I mailed my pre-registration in December and the ticket
order as soon as the registration forms arrived a few months later. It was also important to beat the rush for
hotel reservations since I always like to stay at the convention headquarters
hotel. Around a dozen different hotels
and motels were to be used by conventioneers, due to the available space in
each. I later learned that approximately
800 people attended the convention.
When the passengers for the Fray Marcos Hotel finished
boarding the shuttle and the driver had loaded our luggage into another
vehicle, we were on our way. Included in
our group were Helen and Smoky, another man and his wife I met on the platform
at LaJunta, and others I had already
determined on the train were
coming to the convention.
My Amtrak tickets had been written with an included ticket
slip for a Thruway bus from Williams Junction to Williams, but the driver
hadn't checked for tickets. I asked if
he needed to collect a ticket, but he said he didn't. Apparently this was a free shuttle provided
by the Fray Marcos and one of the vehicles taking passengers to other points in
Williams was considered the Thruway bus.
With windshield wipers slapping in the light rain, the
shuttle bumped along on a side road for a fairly short distance and then
proceeded down a highway. It was pitch
black outside except for the headlights, so all I could see was woods on either
side of the road. Just as I was
wondering if Williams was as close to Williams Junction as I had thought, some
buildings and the street lights of the town came into view. Even looking forward through the shuttle
windshield, I wasn't able to distinguish much about the town of
darkened store fronts and a
restaurant. Since it was now around
As we exited the shuttle, we could see that the Fray
Marcos was a sprawling two-story medium green-colored building with white trim
around the windows, doors, and columns at the entrance. The new Fray Marcos Hotel was designed to correspond
in appearance to the original hotel building that is connected to the GCRY
train depot and adjacent to the new hotel property.
In the lobby, we lined up at the registration counter
where the clerks were prepared with registration materials laid out. Included were cards to sign and maps of the
hotel layout indicating our room locations. When I made my reservations, I had explained
that I wanted a second floor room rather than one on the first floor. The person I spoke to had assured me that it wouldn't
be a problem. When in my room, I like to
be able to keep my drapes open as I do at home, a practice that isn't desirable
on the first floor. Also, I have better reception
on my radios from a higher location.
When staying in a hotel for only one or two nights, it's not that
important. If staying for an entire
week, it becomes an issue.
When I called the hotel from the train to confirm my
arrival, I hadn't thought to confirm the room location. Looking at the registration materials, I discovered
that I had been assigned to a room on the first floor. Helen, standing next to me, had 225 on the
second floor and offered to switch rooms.
The clerk said all the rooms were the same, regardless of being for
couples or singles, and quickly made the change. Helen and Smoky seemed happy with the more
convenient first floor location.
While we were signing our cards and paying for our rooms,
the luggage was delivered to the lobby.
Those of us headed to the second floor claimed our luggage, crowded into
the elevator, and were soon in our rooms.
I found that 225 was at the end of the hall in
one of the wings, hopefully facing the depot or tracks. I can't see trains at all where I live, so
when I come to the conventions, I consider the room view as part of the overall
experience. I had a marvelous room view
of rail activity during the convention and Railfair
in
It felt good to be able to unpack all my clothes and
equipment and really settle in. That's a
luxury I don't usually have in my regular travels, when spending one or maybe
two nights in each place. I was excited
with anticipation of the days to come, but managed to turn out the lights and
fall asleep sometime around
I must have been really tired after the late hours, as I
slept longer than I had planned. When I
awoke, the sun was already streaming in my window. Looking out, I could see some early morning
activity in the area of the depot complex.
Now I was in a hurry to begin exploring.
The first scheduled activity of the convention was a
two-day excursion from
The historic Williams depot complex includes the original
Fray Marcos Hotel (one of the Harvey House restaurant/hotels), now used for a
Grand Canyon Railway/Williams, AZ museum.
Attached is the GCRY train station with ticket windows and shopping
area. Adjacent to that is a newer
building of similar style, housing the 300-seat Max & Thelma's Restaurant
(named for the GCRY
owners) and a large gift
shop. From a GCRY brochure, I had
learned that the train left daily at
While awaiting the start of registration/check-in, I
spent the remainder of the morning exploring the museum and other facilities in
the depot complex and taking photos around the depot and hotel grounds. What started out to be a bright, sunny day, soon began to turn grey with
a light rain sprinkling down. Since this
was the time of year for the monsoon season in the southwest, I had expected
the possibility of typical rain storms every afternoon. The dark
clouds and showers seemed to
confirm my suspicions. However, much to
the dismay of the locals but luckily for the convention, this was the last time
for clouds and rain the entire week.
During the remainder of my stay, we had nothing but sunny, blue-sky days
and pleasant temperatures.
As
In 1984, Williams was the last town located on Route 66
to be bypassed by Interstate 40. The
turn-of-the-century (1900) era downtown district is a six square block area
listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The street is lined by brick sidewalks and
old fashioned concrete lamp posts, with quaint buildings housing antique, gift,
and Native American jewelry shops, restaurants, etc. Most of these carry out the Route 66 theme to
varying degrees in merchandise, decor, 1950's cars, and menus. I spent most of the afternoon walking up and
down the street, reading the historic plaques on the buildings, browsing in the
shops, and photographing several blocks of buildings along the street. I also found a convenience store where I
purchased some donuts and other food items to keep in my room so I wouldn't
have to waste time eating breakfasts in the restaurant.
By
At
I was particularly interested in observing those arriving
because I hoped to see Charlie, the one person I remembered most from the 1999
convention. He was a nice, older
gentleman from
At that time of year and without Daylight Savings time in
I was awake early, full of enthusiasm for the day's
activities. As is usual, there were several
events planned. I had signed up for the
Verde Canyon Railroad excursion during the day and the Western Railroad
Multimedia Presentation in the evening.
There were also two seminars during the day, "Logging Railroads of
Northern Arizona" and "When the Railroad Leaves Town." In the evening, there was a night photo
session.
The shuttle buses were scheduled to depart from the
Williams Depot at
By
The train wove its way through
Perkinsville is a ghost town of
sorts, originally settled in 1912. The remaining
structures are all railroad buildings, although there was previously a school,
general store, post office, and homes for around a dozen families. Their livelihood was provided by a smelter
that closed in the early 1950s. In the
1960s, scenes from the movie "How the West Was Won" were shot there. Although the tracks continue another eighteen
miles to Drake, the VCRR engines
turn at Perkinsville
to begin the return trip.
We returned to the Clarkdale depot at
We left Clarkdale at
The shuttles to take us to the evening program were to
leave at
Once again, I arose early and
munched donuts in my room while preparing for the day's activities. Four events were on the list for that day: an
AM tour of the GCRY Locomotive Shop, an all-day non-rail bus tour to
While waiting, I was joined by Helen and some other
friends of hers. I had thought perhaps
this seminar might be attended mostly by women, with the men all at the shop
tour. However, this wasn't the
case. In the group at the auditorium, I
recognized Gene Poon who writes for Rail Travel News
and Dan Chazin whose rail travelogues I have enjoyed
reading on TrainWeb.
When I had the opportunity, I introduced myself to Dan and we chatted
for awhile. I was glad to see he was
making notes for another travelogue.
I sat with Helen and her friends during the program. The seminar was staged by a group from
displayed on a table for our
viewing.
The shuttle returned us to the Fray Marcos in time to clean
up and think about lunch. Armed with the
gear I wanted to take on the
Soon we were on our way along the GCRY tracks to the
Canyon. A photo run-by was scheduled on
this northbound trip. This was without a
doubt the best photo run-by I've participated in at a convention. Others entailed clambering up a slope out of
a ravine or scuffling through desert sagebrush in blistering sun. I even skipped a run-by in
The Harvey Girls were riding the train, handing out candy
kisses and packets of information provided by the Winslow Chamber of
Commerce. Representatives of the committee
for the 2003 NRHS Convention were also on the train, with information on
"Star Spangled Rails" to be held in
The 2003 convention sounds like a good time, but having
grown up in
another convention until 2004 in
After our train turned in a wye,
we pulled in at the vintage log station below the El Tovar
Hotel at
At
After staying up too late the night before, I felt a bit
lazy and didn't leave the hotel as early as I might have. I had originally considered attending the seminars
that morning, the First Hundred Years of the Grand Canyon Railway and vintage
slides of the Santa Fe Railway. However,
it was such a beautiful day that I somehow lost interest in being cooped up in
the Middle School auditorium all morning.
Instead, I headed for the depot where the GCRY train was preparing to
leave on its daily trip to the Canyon.
It was getting to be a habit with me to view its departures and arrivals
when I wasn't involved in another activity.
With the vintage locomotives, passenger cars, and depot, I could
mentally step back in time to an experience of earlier days.
The rest of the day was free, before the
After wandering back from downtown, I thought I should
write the postcards I purchased earlier in the week, although it didn't matter
if my friends around the country received them before or after I returned
home. One of several tables in front of
the Fray Marcos provided a pleasant location for doing the tedious job. Eyeing Max & Thelma's Restaurant across
the way, I settled on having a delicious soup and sandwich lunch there.
After lunch, I was cutting across the depot platform on
my way to the post office downtown to mail my postcards when I encountered a
reporter and cameraman from TV-2 in
the idea, but finally
consented. With all the speaking I've
done both professionally and in Ham radio, I thought the interview went very
poorly. Had I been prepared, I would
have taken the reins and addressed more appropriate topics. I don't know how much she knew about the
NRHS, but I was being steered away from what I enjoy about the
conventions. After asking me how I
became interested in trains, she brought up the topic of model
railroading. I tried to
explain about the 3751 excursion
and something about rare mileage, but I think that was lost on her. I did manage to add a few plugs for riding
Amtrak. Overall I felt the interview
leaned more toward tourist and model trains, perhaps leaving the impression
that the NRHS is largely comprised of model railroaders. I hoped that I discounted that idea and that
her interviews with a couple of men she found had gone better. Actually, I hoped even more that her interview
with me would end up on the cutting room floor!
The 2nd Annual Williams Railroad Days festival was taking
place that weekend. In 2001, this event
was held in the parking lot by the
meeting.
The pleasant day had become very windy, with dust blowing
off the dry fields around the tracks and also at the dusty location at the
park. The vendors were set up in an area
with bleachers on one side, apparently used for sports and other outdoor
shows. There were much fewer than the
"over 60 vendors" advertised and not much else of interest taking
place, so I didn't spend much time there.
I bought an inlaid turtle necklace pendant for a souvenir and then headed
back to the hotel. The park proved to be
further away than I thought, so it had taken me longer to walk there and
back. By then it was past time for the
shuttle to the membership meeting and I was mainly interested in washing off
the dirt I had accumulated. After
writing more postcards, it was time to dress for the banquet.
The shuttle buses were once again provided, this time
taking us to the Mountain Side Inn located along Route 66 near the east end of
town. I had walked almost that far when
I went to Twisters that morning. The
banquet social hour was to begin at
Upon arriving at the Mountain Side Inn, I found the
cocktail lounge and adjacent areas fully packed with conventioneers. In the crowd I encountered Helen and some of
her friends, so chatted with them until it was time to enter the dining area. The banquet hall was arranged with long
tables running perpendicular to the stage.
There was also a balcony where additional tables were set up. Helen and her friends planned to sit in the
balcony, but I preferred the main floor.
From previous years, I was accustomed to signing up for the table
seating earlier
in the week. This time there was no advance table sign-up,
so I didn't know where I would be sitting.
The tables closer to the stage seemed to be filling fast,
but just inside the door there was a table with several empty seats. I asked the men already there if the seats
were open and they said they were. I was
soon joined by John from
table sign-up, since I was lucky
enough to have such congenial table partners.
Additionally, this was a good location near the door where fresh air was
circulating. From a choice between beef,
chicken, and vegetarian, I had chosen the prime rib dinner which was large but
delicious. The meal was followed by an audio
visual program on growing up around Walt Disney and Walt's fascination with
trains, presented by Michael Broggie, author of the
book “Disney's Railroad
Story.”
There were two convention activities that day: the 3751
train would travel to the
Leaving the hotel that morning, I crossed to the depot to
view the
of the conventioneers were at
the banquet during those viewing times.
I enjoyed riding through
overlooking the spectacular red rocks setting.
We were back in Williams a little after
the GCRY frequencies on my radio
while I waited. The 3751 train was
expected back around
blazer, decorated with
embroidered patches from the conventions she attended and trains she has ridden
through the years. I learned that she's
familiar with my home town, her first husband having been from my area.
When the 3751 train finally arrived close to
This was a day that I always hate to see arrive, my last
day in a place I have particularly enjoyed.
For me, the convention was all but over, with my last activity having
been the previous day. When I made my
plans in March, I considered leaving on Sunday morning, but had decided to stay
over the one extra day. That would allow
me to see the departure of the 3751 train, more time for packing up after a
whole week, some final time in the setting without feeling I was being rushed
off, and the Southwest Chief wouldn't be as crowded. As it turned out, I had a couple of days
between my return home and any commitments there, so I was glad I wasn't
leaving until Monday. Reflecting
now on my Monday departure, that chance decision set in motion a chain of
events with an extraordinary outcome that I couldn't have predicted in my most
vivid imagination.
Most of the friends I made during the week had already
left or were leaving. If they hadn't
left on Sunday's Chief, they were leaving on the 3751 train. I was on the platform at the depot by
With the departure of 3751 and also the GCRY train on its
daily trip to the Canyon, I especially felt that everything was ending. I began to see strangers replacing familiar
faces around the hotel/depot complex.
This made me recall my last convention experience, in
For the remainder of the day, I planned to make the
rounds one last time of the museum in the Williams depot complex, the downtown
area, the
By later in the afternoon, I just wanted to sit at the
depot, although the GCRY train wouldn't be in until
Wanting to have dinner out of the way early, I went to
Max & Thelma's at
When I hurried into the hotel at almost 6:00 PM, I found
the Santa Fe Room filled with people, but was directed to an empty chair in the
front. More people were still arriving,
with "standing room only" in the rear. It was a mixed crowd including families with
children, who were soon enthralled with the presentation. The program was conducted by Bob Lighter, the
ranger I met at the
Upon leaving the Santa Fe Room, I went outside with my
camera, hoping to see a spectacular sunset to photograph as the final touch to
my stay in Williams. Sunsets usually
require clouds to reflect the last rays in a dramatic pattern. The sky was too clear, so the sun set quietly,
without drama. And so,
too, ended my week.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Copyright
© 2002 by Carol Larsen